Sometimes in life we want to present the best kids wagon for the children but always in a dilemma of which type to buy - All-Terrain Wagon or Folding Wagon?. For those who want to get the best wagons for kids, don't hesitate to read the kids' wagons reviews and get the best deal on the market. Watch the video below: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ITxWH64bFw
There is another video demonstrate the methods to make a wooden kid's wagon for his grandson. The video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mxWZgQxhcHc
The video transcript is below:
Hi, I'm going to make a wagon for my grandson Diego.
I'll show you how we've designed it in the various elements involved, we will not be putting any plans out but I think you'll have enough information to design your own.
Let's get started in designing the bed of the wagon. I used oak planks this is a 6 8 and 6 inch wide piece and I've decided to make it 36 inches. I glued this Center 4 inch board in the middle of the bed on the underside. I held the boards into place with clamps used a shim to keep the board separate and then I put glue underneath and I put four screws exterior-grade and I happen to use a ceramic coated star drive screw to hold the board solidly to the underside of the bed.
In designing the rear truck my first decision is where I wanted the wheel and I decided that I want the wheel. I wanted the wheel to be approximately in the back of the line with the bed of the wagon knowing that I then took my 4 inch piece of oak and I cut the ends off so that the wheel which is right over it won't be impeding it. And I also made the wheel approximately half in and half out nuts so that the wagon isn't going to be rubbing against a wall and it will just hit this non marring rubber wheel.
This is 16 and 1/2 inches long and the height of this is determined by the wheel size which I chose an 8 inch wheel and giving it about a 1 inch clearance and so this particular piece is 5 and 1/2 inches tall.
It is glued and screwed into the bottom brace again of the exterior-grade screws because the force of the wagon is in this direction when it's being pulled. This particular channel on the top of this truck board is weak and so to reinforce it I put this brace of oak and notice that it comes flat across the top to keep this from being pushed backwards.
This will be a pocket into place later on I'm used. I have used a 1 inch 1/8 inch angle aluminum and have exterior stainless steel screws into there on both the inside and the outside of the brace.
Let me talk about some of the design considerations. For the front truck, number one that the height of this axle board is the same height which is five and half inches. In my situation as the rear axle board this will be pivoting like this and the three-piece tongue which looks like that from the top is glued and screwed.
The width of this piece right here is the same as the width of the axle board which in my case is 16 and a half inches wide. This axle board has a slot just as it did in the rear and the angle that I've made. This cut here is designed such that it will hold very firmly against the three-piece tongue when I'm going to be gluing this and screwing it.
I will make certain that this axle board is perpendicular to the line down to the center of this board. I finalized the Assembly of the yoke and Axel board and I've installed these braces behind the axel because the forward movement of the cart is going to be pushing this weak point backwards on the backside.
Of the time we're going to be installing three blocks of wood gluing and the shaft will go through here. I've decided to put it three quarters of an inch back from the axel wood so as to allow a washer of adequate size to fit there as well as a wrench.
Let me show you how we decided to mount the front truck.
We have a five inch stainless steel bolt. I have a stainless steel washer in which we've cut a square hole for the collar under the bolt. We've also countersunk the washer into the wood as such and to keep the bolt from turning like this because this is where the force is going to be.
We've countersunk a hole here into which we are putting a washer tightened down by a little nut that we've cut in half. It's going to be in there, this is going to be rotating washer screw down under washer on the underside of the truck. There is another washer screw down and to keep the thing together yet another washer and a crown nut or stainless steel bolt is five inches.
We measured it, it'll be about right. We may need to chop it down but it'll be nice and solid. We bought these really cool wheels at Harbor Freight. Although they came with a 5/8 inch bearing we’re able to change the bearings out. We thought we were going to be using a threaded rod but the problem with the threaded rod that even with the half-inch bearing is that it's too much slop and so we have gone instead to a rod half-inch rod and it fits very nicely.
We needed to readjust the width of this channel here to fit the rod because it is about sixteen thousandths of an inch thicker. There's enough to make a difference. We'll be putting on some end caps. We have a washer on the outside, we have a washer against the wheel and we have a spacer nut which will be a proxy din against the wood, against which this washer will ride in.
Designing the rails - I decided to spend a little bit more time that I needed to. I made the joint a fairly strong joint which glues quite well on the rails themselves to decrease the weight. I made a routed half here and half so that this width in the middle is three eighths of an inch which is half of the 3/4 inch of the open.
I added handles here by drilling a hole, one inch hole and using the router to trim out three hand holes. Then I put rope guides at the corner of that as well just for fun. I then put this at an angle on the lower edge so that the rain wouldn't catch and I made this so that a one and three-quarter inch screw is going to be able to mount from the base through here and fit quite well for the side rails.
We've used 1x 6 oak and I put a little rabbit cut here in the rail and since this is only glued and not screwed. I've reinforced the corner with another piece of oak to attach the handle to the tongue. What we're going to do is we're using a copper sleeve on an oak dowel and we first drilled a one-inch hole in here.
We will then be using a saw to cut up here and we will put a bolt through there. I've put a clevis pin on the pivot for the shaft to mount the axles to the truck. I'm going to be filling this groove with epoxy and then setting the axle in it and then replacing a protective aluminium piece on top.
I've designed the front truck so that by spinning it around after removing the handle the wheels will be inside the body line of the wagon. In order to be able to steer the wagon from within the wagon, I've put a 45 here in the shaft and I've used some copper pipe to make a handle. I'll be painting this so that it doesn't get green giggle.
What do you think after watching this video?
To be frank, it is very complicated especially if you are not a handy man or mechanic. To assemble a simple wagon like the Radio Flyer Classic wagon is already not easy. Let alone a big wooden wagon.
My recommendation is to buy one of the Radio Flyer wagons on Amazon and solve the problem. There are many models worth to check out such as the Radio Flyer Classic Red Wagon, Steel and Wood Wagon, Town and Country Wagon and many more.